A dedicated group of visitors goes back every year to Obergurgl or Hochgurgl, some of our reporters among them. Whichever of the two resorts they are loyal to, they love its high, snow sure, easy intermediate slopes, its end-of-the-valley seclusion and civilized atmosphere, its lively tea-time après-ski and its comfortable, expensive hotels. There aren’t many beds, so you need to book early to avoid disappointment.

But some first-timers are disappointed. Even accepting the exposed setting, some yearn for a more substantial village, some for more variety of terrain, some simply for more runs. They have a point. If we’re going to a bleak, high, snow-sure resort where there is nothing to do but ski or board, we’d rather go somewhere with rather more skiing or boarding to do (like Tignes, for example).

On Mountain Dining

There are 11 lodges and mountain restaurants dotted across the resort. These range from traditional lodges with table service and self-service restaurants to umbrella bars for a quick drink and a snack. The Top Mountain Star is an undoubted highlight in this respect. At 3,080 meters above sea level, the viewing platform and panoramic bar are quite simply astonishing. Expect breath-taking views over the Ötztaler Alps, extending all the way to the Dolomites. Despite the futuristic architecture, the building is nicely integrated into the mountainside and a great place to unwind.

Foodies should definitely give the Hohe Mut Alm a try. It offers Tirolean specialties right out of the top draw: Kaspressknödel, Tiroler Gröstl, Kasnocken, and many more favorites are served in rustic surroundings. The view of 21 3,000m peaks comes as standard! The large sundeck here is without down one of the top highlights in the ski area, if not the entire region. If you enjoy après-ski fun, then Arnold’s Schirmbar in Hochgurgl or the Festkogel-Alm are the places to head for.

What’s Great

• Glaciers apart, one of the Alps’ most reliable resorts for snow – especially good for a late-season holiday
• Excellent area for beginners, timid intermediates and families
• Normally liftline- and crowd-free
• Retains village charm despite modern development
• lively tea-time après-ski
• Obergurgl and Hochgurgl slopes are now linked by gondola