There is no doubt that Verbier is trying hard to retain its international visitors, improving over the last few years its grooming, snowmaking, ski school, and lifts – most recently with the overdue replacement of the Tortin gondola. But major complaints remain. Some are down to the organization of the resort – the kind of slope signposting would be comical if it were not infuriating – but others are down to the lie of the land.

For experts prepared to hire a guide in order to explore off-slope, Verbier is one of the big names. With its FourValleys lift network and a claimed 250 miles of slopes; Verbier would seem at first sight to rank alongside the French mega-resorts such as Courchevel or La Plagne for slope skiers, too. But it doesn’t; the Four Valleys is an inconveniently sprawling affair, while Verbier’s local slopes are surprisingly confined. Of course, slope skiers can have a satisfying holiday here – but you can do that in scores of resorts from Alpbach to Zell am See. Whether they can match Verbier’s famously vibrant nightlife is another question.

What’s Great

• Extensive, challenging slopes with a lot of off-slope potential and some good bump runs
• Lively, varied nightlife
• Fewer liftlines than there used to be
• Hardly any surface lifts in Verbier (though still lots in linked resorts)
• The sunny, panoramic setting, and great views from the highest slopes
• Good advanced-level lessons
• Much improved slope grooming in recent seasons